Our journey around Australia is into it's 15th month and as I sit back relaxing on the mighty Murray River, in Victoria , I can't but help acknowledge its been an unique and privileged experience to see this remarkable land that we live in , and its not over yet! there's still the golden triangle. But first let me recall our encounter with one of Australia's most demanding of outback roads "The Nullarbor".
Leaving from our bush camp near the pink Lake, Cowan in Norseman WA heading to Ceduna which is still really out in the sticks, is roughly 1670kms, and boasts the longest straight stretch of road, anywhere in the southern hemisphere, being a 146.6 kms long, and dead straight.
Our first night of the journey began like any, Its usually a bird bath of a shower if you know what I mean, no time to heat up the solar bag before dark, for a full shower, so it's a Billy can job. Even on the Nullabore with day time temperatures in summer reaching 40 degrees Celsius + you still need to wash/bath before sundown, as its gets cold and windy as soon as the sun disappears. After dinner and chores are done, its time to settle back in bed with an DVD episode of some TV mini series. I bet you thought I was going to say "settle back around the camp fire" didn't you? but hay that's the time when all the bugs come out, so we're tucked up safely inside, and therefore I must confess: I hate misquotes and flies.
As I said the night began like any other, each of us performing our chores for the common good, it was just on dark when this weird noise began. Sort of like a howling from across the desert plain. No joke! We listened and waited for cars and trucks to pass on bye, but no it was not the cross wind of traffic on the highway, it was a mournful howling from nowhere ? out across the wilderness that surrounded us.
It was not an animal noise although we did spot an Owl nesting, the noise continued and was constant late into the night. There were no lights or green headed aliens, but it was like there should have been, it was the perfect noise for such a scene as "alien arrival", even though this was for real.
The following day we quizzed other travelers about the noise, who confirmed they too had heard it, even after sunup that morning, so it definitely was not the red wine. No one knew what IT was, but it stopped as sudden as it started and we didn't hear it again.
On the Nullabor Day one became day 2, became day 3, became day 4 , before there was much of a change in scenery, or we saw any thing like civilization. But we done it, we survived "The great Nullarbor Plain", it truly is the loneliest and longest stretch of road I have ever traveled and would not want to do it in summer, when temperatures are over 40 degrees Celsius every day.
The abundant wild flowers which we had become accustomed to in Western Australia, ceased quiet dramatically at the boarder with South Australia. I must say we do miss them, but are thankful to have our noses and sinus's back to normal.
The Nullarbor officially ends at Ceduna, but hey there really isn't much to look at other than wheat and grain silo's until you reach Kimba and the giant Galah, which apparently is the marker for being half way across the country. I wonder why we Australians love big things.
Some where along the route we came across this recycled water tank, the concrete crappa, takes recycling to a whole new level.
Next is Iron Knob and the gigantic man made mountains of Iron Ore mining waste, or tailing's as they are called which loom out of the skyline for hundreds of kilometers. An iconic symbol to modern day mining processes, the numerous flat top mountains which change our landscape forever. Then finally you reach Port Augusta and Adelaide, civilization and life! after such a very long drive.
But the trip is really about what you make it, now waving rigorously to the on coming traffic and keeping stats on who returns the wave, can be entertaining for a while, but have you ever thought of playing golf across the Nullarbor?
That's right with tee off in Kalgoorlie WA and the 18th hole in Ceduna South Australia, some 1365kilometers away. The Nullarbor Links as it is called, is the worlds longest golf course. Each town or roadhouse along the Eyre Highway contributes to the 18hole par-72 golf course, which can make for a very different Nullarbor crossing with scheduled pit stops. A novel idea!
Someone told us way back before we started to travel that in going anti- clock wise around Australia, you'd be following the sun and more importantly put the wind at your back, let me tell you that it did not work for us across the Nullarbor, we had strong headwinds all day every day, which took its toll in fuel, at $2.30 per liter and you car't exactly go across the road to get it cheaper! bye jingoes!
So day one started at a cracking pace along Port Noarlunga beach to walk the dogs just on daybreak, then home for a hearty breakfast, for the dogs that is, two beautiful huge German Sheppard guard dogs and our own little Staffy girl Mylee.
Then it was off to the Asian markets in the city, we parked close to the museum and took the tram to the markets. It was a unique experience on a modern day tram , no hanging off the rails here, you can sit down and listen to nice soothing piped music, and a recorded conducted tells you when to get off, how civilized! and free.While we were waiting for the tram low and behold along came the first Solar powered Bus, and the first car to finish the Darwin to Adelaide solar race, the way of the future.
The markets did not disappoint with fresh produce of every kind, specializing in all things Asian, so there was a lot of strange delicacies. Following a huge smorgasbord lunch in the food court, we tramped back to the inner city via the tram to visit the museum.
We particularly loved the gem stone collection , featuring some very nice specimens including opalised fossils from around the globe.
We recognized many of the stuffed birds (exhibits) from our adventures around the country.
But the real treat of the day, was being taken into the State Library, and adjoining Mortlock centre, what an awesome old building with almost an angelic atmosphere, what stories it could tell. The Mortlock centre was being used for a wedding function that night
The next day was family time and it was wonderful catching up with the now grown up nephews and their partners and children galore. Our family sure does breed well.
Somewhere during the day we went to Hugh Hamilton winery in the McLaren Valley.Tasting some remarkable good Merlot and Muscat, equally as good as any from the world re noun Barossa Valley, and with out the extended mountainous journey to get there. Lunch in the old tavern was followed by a visit to the Chocolate factory, which I think was in Willunga, all I do know was it was a very pretty place with quaint old houses and thriving rose gardens everywhere. It seems there are less nasty rose bugs in South Australia, and they certainly do flourish, and yes we did buy some very nice decadent chocolate munchies.
We were well impressed with the whole southern wine growing, and market garden region, such a beautiful and relaxed part of the country, and may visit again.Before we knew it though, Tuesday had arrived, my family were back to work and it was time for us to leave. Refuel both diesel and food supplies, check the tyre pressure, fill the water tanks 180 liters and "we're on that road again" heading for the mighty Murray River and a spot of fishing.!
So until next time keep adventuring,
and remember look after those gems!
Alan & Laurie
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