The Golden Triangle

Golden Triangle Victoria

The Golden triangle in Victoria would be our last opportunity to detect for gold before reaching home. The world renown area is from Bendigo to Ballarat in the south to Stawell in the west, roughly speaking that is, as there has been finds in other area's outside of the triangle such as Echuca.

The gold rushes of the 1850s and 60s made a powerful impression on this region especially in its lavish buildings, which are still in use today. Did you know that the Eureka rebellion in Ballarat in 1854 was the first step towards establishing our democratic principles and the notion of "a fair go for all" ?

Its surprising though how many pioneering stories are woven into this nations history and culture. Bendigo is now a city of some 100,000 people, yet continues to prosper from its golden past through tourism. Although when I asked where we could go to do some gold detecting, no one really knew. I was given the official Goldfields touring map which ironically had nothing about gold detecting in it, just a tourist drive and natural heritage trails.



Tarragulla



So off we went blindly into the bush along some tracks  just outside Tarragulla on the Goldfields tourist drive, thankfully they were wide tracks which made pulling our 20ft caravan though the bush a lot easier.

Salt and Pepper ground a gold indicator

Looking for what we call salt and pepper ground, that's Quartz and Iron stone and the dirtier the Quartz the better, we found a promising site and with a camp spot close by.
There was plenty of evidence that the area was well worked over and it had a lot of trash, and the noise through the head phones can blow your eardrums, if you go out for too long.



GPX4500





The following few days were spent swinging my way through the rough bush terrain, considering the detector weighs around 5 kilo's I should have built up a few muscles, but no joy at all was to be had at that location.

Onward to Dunolly a quaint little village with well planned gardens overflowing with roses and manicured lawns, a little piece of Britain. The folk here were more than happy to give directions to local areas one could detect, along with some good advise and knowledge about my detector GPX 4500.
Hard Hill was apparently producing some recent finds, so off we headed 3kms out of town, but hilly it was not, just gentle slopes which is my favorite terrain, I felt certain this was the place I would   strike the big one.

Trash

After setting up camp I headed off across the railway tracks into the bush in a search for virgin ground. The detecting was not easy with thick undergrowth baring my way, but its these places which are hard to access were the finds are made.

I was taught by the old-timers in West Australia to check around tree stumps and low and behold it finally paid off with a 7gm nugget on my first day!

You can bet I never left an inch of that ground undetected after that, I patiently gridded the entire area, but there wasn't another piece left with my name on it. Not this time anyway.

The Emmy Lou

The weather started to crack up on the fourth day and our water supply was running out so it was time to pack the detectors away and head for the Echuca on our homeward journey.
Echuca is a vibrant bustling city with that old town country feel, we found a beautiful spot right beside the Murray River were we could free camp. The river however was a very dirty brown colour and the river banks were bare of any living vegetation, with the exception of the Red River gums which clutched desperately to the steep banks to exist.




 

Land slip



We parked our van very close to the edge for the view and on that first night while sitting admiring the sun set and skiers on the river a huge river gum not 10 foot away went crashing into the water, along with a huge segment of the embankment. We did very quickly moved the van away from the edge, even though I thought our spot was secure.




The steam engine

The following day it was off to the port of Echuca to cruise the mighty Murray River on board a genuine old paddle steamer. The Emmy Lou was built at the turn of the nineteenth century to cart cargo up and down the river, today it is a licensed   cruising boat with an exceptional menu of fine food and local wines.

We were surprised at how smooth the journey was and impressed at the size of the steam engine that drives the paddles. I even spent some time with the Captain in the wheelhouse getting exclusive info on the Emmy Lou. Another surprise was how many luxury house boats were on the river. It was a great day out !

Luxury house boats

Following the lunch time cruise we browsed the many shops adjacent to the wharf finding a distillery of fine wines St Anne's. After sampling quiet a few of the wines thanks to our host Georgia , our favorite was Jack's Barrel although it was a tough choice, and the barrel we just had to have, has been sent home awaiting our arrival.

As much as we enjoyed Echuca the fishing was not good and the gold was too deep so we moved on. Surveying camp spots all along the Murray at Cobram we popped into the tourist centre to ask for some local knowledge, only to find out that fishing was totally banned this time of year between the weir at Lake Mulwala and the bridge at Tocumwal due to the Murray Cod spawning season. Either side of these places we could fish but not for cod.

Carp

So here we are at Bundalong well above the weir enjoying the beautiful weather and clean river water  clean enough to give Mylee a long awaited B.A.T.H much to her disgust.



Murray Cod



Although it's not the Murray but the Ovens River, the Carp are just as big and I just let go a beautiful Murray Cod.

So we'll be here for a few days I think.

so until next time

Warm regards to you all

Alan and Laurie



The Nullarbor

Our journey around Australia is into it's 15th month and as I sit back relaxing on the mighty Murray River, in Victoria , I can't but help acknowledge its been an unique and privileged experience to see this remarkable land that we live in , and its not over yet! there's still the golden triangle. But first let me recall our encounter with one of Australia's most demanding of outback roads "The Nullarbor".

Leaving from our bush camp near the pink Lake, Cowan in Norseman WA heading to Ceduna which is still really out in the sticks, is roughly 1670kms, and boasts the longest straight stretch of road, anywhere in the southern hemisphere, being a 146.6 kms long, and dead straight.

Our first night of the journey began like any, Its usually a bird bath of a shower if you know what I mean, no time to heat up the solar bag before dark, for a full shower, so it's a Billy can job. Even on the Nullabore with day time temperatures in summer reaching 40 degrees Celsius + you still need to wash/bath before sundown, as its gets cold and windy as soon as the sun disappears. After dinner and chores are done, its time to settle back in bed with an DVD episode of some TV mini series. I bet you thought I was going to say "settle back around the camp fire" didn't you? but hay that's the time when all the bugs come out, so we're tucked up safely inside, and therefore I must confess: I hate misquotes and flies.

As I said the night began like any other, each of us performing our chores for the common good, it was just on dark when this weird noise began. Sort of like a howling from across the desert plain. No joke! We listened and waited for cars and trucks to pass on bye, but no it was not the cross wind of traffic on the highway, it was a mournful howling from nowhere ? out across the wilderness that surrounded us.

It was not an animal noise although we did spot an Owl nesting, the noise continued and was constant late into the night. There were no lights or green headed aliens, but it was like there should have been, it was the perfect noise for such a scene as "alien arrival", even though this was for real.

The following day we quizzed other travelers about the noise, who confirmed they too had heard it, even after sunup that morning, so it definitely was not the red wine. No one knew what IT was, but it stopped as sudden as it started and we didn't hear it again.

On the Nullabor Day one became day 2, became day 3, became day 4 , before there was much of a change in scenery, or we saw any thing like civilization. But we done it, we survived "The great Nullarbor Plain", it truly is the loneliest and longest stretch of road I have ever traveled and would not want to do it in summer, when temperatures are over 40 degrees Celsius every day.

The abundant wild flowers which we had become accustomed to in Western Australia, ceased quiet dramatically at the boarder with South Australia. I must say we do miss them, but are thankful to have our noses and sinus's back to normal.

The Nullarbor officially ends at Ceduna, but hey there really isn't much to look at other than wheat and grain silo's until you reach Kimba and the giant Galah, which apparently is the marker for being half way across the country. I wonder why we Australians love big things.

Some where along the route we came across this recycled water tank, the concrete crappa, takes recycling to a whole new level.

Next is Iron Knob and the gigantic man made mountains of Iron Ore mining waste, or tailing's as they are called which loom out of the skyline for hundreds of kilometers. An iconic symbol to modern day mining processes, the numerous flat top mountains which change our landscape forever. Then finally you reach Port Augusta and Adelaide, civilization and life! after such a very long drive.

But the trip is really about what you make it, now waving rigorously to the on coming traffic and keeping stats on who returns the wave, can be entertaining for a while, but have you ever thought of playing golf across the Nullarbor?

That's right with tee off in Kalgoorlie WA and the 18th hole in Ceduna South Australia, some 1365kilometers away. The Nullarbor Links as it is called, is the worlds longest golf course. Each town or roadhouse along the Eyre Highway contributes to the 18hole par-72 golf course, which can make for a very different Nullarbor crossing with scheduled  pit stops. A novel idea!

Someone told us way back before we started to travel that in going anti- clock wise around Australia, you'd be following the sun and more importantly put the wind at your back, let me tell you that it did not work for us across the Nullarbor, we had strong headwinds all day every day, which took its toll in fuel, at $2.30 per liter and you car't exactly go across the road to get it cheaper! bye jingoes!

Neither of us knew much about Adelaide (other than being the city of Churches)  having only passed through it on our way west or North, but this time it was going to be different. I had family to visit and they love Adelaide.
So day one started at a cracking pace along Port Noarlunga beach to walk the dogs just on daybreak, then home for a hearty breakfast, for the dogs that is, two beautiful huge German Sheppard guard dogs and our own little Staffy girl Mylee.

Then it was off to the Asian markets in the city, we parked close to the museum and took the tram to the markets. It was a unique experience on a modern day tram , no hanging off the rails here, you can sit down and listen to nice soothing piped music, and a recorded conducted tells you when to get off, how civilized! and free.

While we were waiting for the tram low and behold along came the first Solar powered Bus, and the first car to finish the Darwin to Adelaide solar race, the way of the future.

The markets did not disappoint with fresh produce of every kind, specializing in all things Asian, so there was a lot of strange delicacies. Following a huge smorgasbord lunch in the food court, we tramped back to the inner city via the tram to visit the museum.

We particularly loved the gem stone collection , featuring some very nice specimens including opalised fossils from around the globe.

  

We recognized many of the stuffed birds (exhibits) from our adventures around  the country.

But the real treat of the day, was being taken into the State Library, and adjoining Mortlock centre, what an awesome old building with almost an angelic atmosphere, what stories it could tell. The Mortlock centre was being used for a wedding function that night

The next day was family time and it was wonderful catching up with the now grown up nephews and their partners and children galore. Our family sure does breed well.

Somewhere during the day we went to Hugh Hamilton winery in the McLaren Valley.Tasting some remarkable good Merlot and Muscat, equally as good as any from the world re noun Barossa Valley, and with out the extended mountainous journey to get there. Lunch in the old tavern was followed by a visit to the Chocolate factory, which I think was in Willunga, all I do know was it was a very pretty place with quaint old houses and thriving rose gardens everywhere. It seems there are less nasty rose bugs in South Australia, and they certainly do flourish, and yes we did buy some very nice decadent chocolate munchies.

We were well impressed with the whole southern wine growing, and market garden region, such a beautiful and relaxed part of the country, and may visit again.

Before we knew it though, Tuesday had arrived, my family were back to work and it was time for us to leave. Refuel both diesel and food supplies, check the tyre pressure, fill the water tanks 180 liters and "we're on that road again" heading for the mighty Murray River and a spot of fishing.!

So until next time keep adventuring, 

and remember look after those gems! 

Alan & Laurie

alan@gemseek.com.au

www.gemseek.com.au





More than One Adventure





Home sweet home



 There's nothing quiet like going home after a long time away, and Laurie was so excited to be back in Perth after 12 years on the east coast, I swear she wanted to get out of the car and run to her sister-in-laws house, as we approached MT Helena and she may have been faster than our heavy rig was handling the "hills".




Kids have become adults, and twins were born , just as  waistlines,wrinkles, and gray hair have grown , but time doesn't always change everything . True friendships are still friendships even when unattended. So there was a lot of catching up to do between these two old friends. Conversations evolved around whose kids were doing what? who married who, and so and so got divorced, and the unfortunate few who had left this world for greener pastures. Who would have known that Laurie knew so many people, in her past life.

I sat patiently in the background thinking of fishing days in Broom, with an occassional well timed aha , yes , or really. When completely bored I kept the 5 year old twin nephews amused, so the girls could catch up uninterrupted. And it rained cats and dogs all week long.

 After 3 days we ventured out to Midland for my type of retail therapy, suitcase solar panels and 6 volt batteries. We also had a wonderful lunch at a place called 7th Avenue, which resembles an old English pub inside. Our friends from Darwin, Kaye and Rod caught up with us too for a very scrumptious hamburger lunch. It was interesting swapping our travel adventures from Darwin down to Perth as we had traveled different routes, and learned we must experience the coastal route next time. So many places to see.

After a very wet week in the Perth hills, which in all honesty was our first real wet in months, it was time to change locations and friends and head south to Serpentine.

Ruth and Geoff

A fruit orchard no less what a great opportunity to learn something new. Geoff and Ruth were such gracious hosts and helped to fix all sorts of problems and challenges with the car and van. Thankfully the weather improved, and the warm sunny days were used to clean both car and van, inside and out from the two ton of red mud and bull dust glued to it, from our out back travels.

Orange "cherry picker"

I also put in a couple of days packing oranges and lemons, mastering the "quality control" side of the operation. I never knew there was so much involved, with such a humble piece of fruit. Starting with the picking of the fruit, if the picker leaves some stalk on the fruit, it can prick other fruit making them second grade fruit, through no fault of their own. Also the difference between the size and presentation of the orange for eating compared to those used for juice, such as a navel with bumps is not first grade even though its as good taste wise and believe me there are some weird shaped oranges. The conveyor belt was challenging, traveling quiet fast too, for picking out the dud ones, but I really enjoyed the experience, thanks guys.
Whilst staying at the farm "Little Toot" our little flat bottom punt, dusted off the cobwebs and came to the rescue, in fixing a leaky dam, with a Chrystle type glue product ???
Wonderfully clean and beautifully sparkling, ,blue, fresh drinking water.

Bye the way the 100 ache lush green orchard is up for sale, such a beautiful farm, in such a beautiful part of the world, Serpentine.

contact us for further details.

Oh and dont worry about the lea, it's fixed.

Laurie took me past her old home which had seen many changes since she had left along with the old neighbor hood which had tripled in size. The new freeway and rail service was a huge transport improvement and we took advantage of the train and traveled from Rockingham to the city some 50kms in 17 minutes! I found the city of Perth quiet relaxing for a city, beautifully landscaped and easy to travel the free buses around town, which run every 10 minutes.

One of our expeditions was to the Perth mint, were we watched gold being smelted and poured into a bar formation, watching in disbelief as it turned from mouton lava to a solid and cold bar with in 2 minutes, absolutely incredible. I also picked up a 400 oz bar, man was it heavy. The tour included the opportunity to weigh ones self in the equivalent of gold, so its now official, I am worth my weight in Gold, I am valued at just over $3,million.

We both enjoyed the special effects of the London Archade for morning tea in the city.

A trip into Fremantle and the markets was high on the priority list, and I must admit for a market its friendly with good bargains and lots of busker's entertaining the crowds, I loved it.

From there we took a drive up the coast to Hillary's boat Harbour, arriving just in time to watch the AFL grand final, at one of the tavern's, much to Laurie's delight.



   

Perth City Bell tower



The range of busking entertainment, eateries and activities was vast and I think this type of development would be great back in Coffs Harbour along the foreshore towards the old quarry, it would bring it to life, food for thought.



Fantastic performer to classical music



Of all the Cities in Australia and I've now seen them all, I would have to say that Perth is the best and most livable, it is a beautiful and friendly city, and I look forward to another trip somewhere in the future.

Our three weeks in Perth just flew bye and I know Laurie was'nt ready to leave, but there is still plenty more to see and people to visit , and now that we have to be home for Christmas, yes its official I'm off to Thailand for my sons new year's eve wedding. Congratulations my boy, she's a good women.

We headed south to Busselton jetty which is an iconic heritage structure listed as the longest timber piled jetty in the southern hemisphere. Construction began back in 1865 and being a mere 161 meters, in 1875 another 131 meters was added and over the following 90 years more extensions were added creating the current 1.8 kilometer length.

After more than a century of use and servicing over 5000 vessels including timber export, the Busselton Jetty was closed as a port in 1973 and once closed to shipping, government maintenance and funding ceased. Decline followed, along with crippling damage caused by cyclone Alby in 1978. A community group was formed to raise funds for the much needed restoration. By 2003 a massive 50% had been restored and by early this year 2011 a further $27 million has been spent to complete the restoration.

But it is not your ordinary jetty, it has its own railway, Underwater Observatory, Interpretive Centre and Cultural Heritage Museum, truly an outstanding achievement for the Busselton community, and well worth a visit.



Yallingup Bay to Cape Naturaliste



We arrived in the world famous Margaret River township in time for their "Flourish" festival. Which is a celebration of the Spring wildflowers and the unique landscape of the region. Flourish is about living with nature, sustaining the environment and enjoying the beauty of Margaret River.  From the stunning beaches to breath taking forests, picture post card scenery, in every direction. In particular we enjoyed the vineyards and phenomenal wine and food. Partaking of a little too much was the perfect excuss to decline climbing the Gloucester Lookout tree the following morning.



Gloucester Tree
(Forest fire lookout)

           

 

We explored the regions caves, coastlines and forests untill we were too exhausted to do much, desperately needing "A doona day" mother nature stepped in, raining cats and dogs making a day in bed in the van with a good book on the doorstep of "Valley of the Giants", a great option to rest and restore ourselves, just what we needed.

Reading fictional novels is  a new experience for me which I have developed over the 14 months we have been traveling around Australia, it really is relaxing, and I become so involved with the charectors, I'm truely amazed at just how good, reading is for you. I've discovered Clive Cussler you could say , devouring six of his books in the past few weeks  http://www.clivecussler.com.au/books.htm

But getting back to the story though, the following day the sun was back out and so was the wind, but hey we were off to the Valley of the giants.WA'S famous forest of gigantic Tingle Trees some growing as tall as 80 +  meters, making them one of the tallest species in Australia and found growing along side Red Karri , Marri tree's, in the ancient empire walk track. Once upon at time there was a real car parked in the truck of the tree.

The tree top walk , awsome, this spectacular lightweight bridge soars upward 40m into the Tingle foliage, in amongst the canopy was a wonderful experience, sighting many of the 280 native birds that live in the region. Although the walk way is made of steel it feels like an old wooden and rope extension bridge, and it had quiet a sway up due to the strong winds that day, very Indianan Jones I thought, most enjoyable.

One huge burly nose

                                  Laurie sat  in the original car, back in 1981


  


There are some places on earth that aren't necessarily top resorts with impressive amenities or activities, but become special due to their simplicity, and serenity. Peaceful  Bay on the south coast of Western Australia is one such place, its also very special to Laurie and her daughters having been their summer hide away for many years. Therefore we spent a pleasant two days walking down memory lane, reminiscing this unchanged "special" part of the world, that some how still is  "special."



Albany Harbour

 Albany was next on the itinerary with a brief catch up with an old gold fossicking mate, then a tour of this old whaling town, what a pretty spot.

Esperance was next in line for our investigating but due to their unfriendly dog nature we did not end up stopping, seems that Staffy's are on their "dangerous dog list" and there was no exception, so we kept driving, their loss.



Our girl Mylee







But who on earth could believe that "Staffordshire Terriers" are aggressive ? I think they have them mixed up with "Bull terriers" and a meeting with our special girl Mylee would prove them wrong, its not  in their DNA to be aggressive.




                

Blue Chalcedony bracelet





 

 We drove north to Norseman, where Ed, an old rock hound we had encountered up north, had given us a mud map to a spot just north of Norseman, were we would find golden lace Chalcedony. A beautiful golden coloured rock with lace like intrusions, this very unusual rock was often used in broaches made around 1940/50's when it was popular and abundant, but today its quiet a rare find.

With a free stop camp nearby in which to park up the van , we set about to find the spot Ed had told us of. We were not disappointed with his directions, finding our intended treasure immediately, having parked right on the spot. It was however very hard to select the right pieces to take, many were left behind having to give considering to all the additional weight.
                                                               Reminds me of a  hilarious carvaning episode of Lucile Ball.

So with a few more kilo's of rock on board, its now time to across "The Nullabore" One of Australia's great road journeys. Esperance to Ceduna which is still really out in the sticks, its 1400kms and boasts the longest straight stretch of road anywhere in the southern hemisphere 146.6 kms long, and dead straight.

Bye jingoes!

       But I'll save that story for another time.

Until then , its stay safe and keep digging.

BFN

( BYE FOR NOW)

Alan and Laurie

http://alan@gemseek.com.au

www.gemseek.com.au

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